The Perfect Fit: What You Should Know About Ring Sizing

Some of the most humorous things we tend to hear from our clients is what they observe about their fingers when sizing their rings. “I have chunky fingers,” “my fingers are not pretty,” and “my knuckles are so boney” are just some of the things they say. We always find a way to reassure our clients that no matter what you think about your fingers, we can help you adjust the ring to fit just right. 

There are two different ways to think about your ring and how it sits on your hand: your ring size and the ring fit. The ring size is basically limited by your knuckles, since the circumference of the band will need to fit over your knuckle. Most people's knuckles are larger than their fingers, so, for many people and especially those with top-heavy rings, this can lead to a ring that flops around on your finger. If you find that your ring is constantly rotating to the side, but you don't think sizing the ring down is a good idea due to your knuckles, then a fit adjustment might be the best option.

Option 1: Sizing Beads or Sizing Bar

Sizing beads, or speed bumps, are small balls or raised domes soldered onto the inside shank of rings. We usually recommend speed bumps for top-heavy rings that have a tendency to spin sideways, rings with thin shanks, and rings where there’s not enough material to help hold the ring upright. When it comes to ring design, speed bumps don't mess with the outside surface of the band, since they are installed on the inside of the shank. Speed bumps are one of the most common and budget-friendly options, and the adjustment works particularly well when spinning is the primary issue.

Option 2: Hinged Adjuster

For clients who seriously struggle to get their rings over their knuckles because of arthritis or hand injuries, an adjustable shank is the best choice. Hinged ring adjusters can be added to almost any ring, and can open up to three finger sizes larger. The adjustable shank lets clients open and close the ring at the bottom of the band, making it easier to slide over the knuckle to sit perfectly in place. Things do get complicated if the ring has an ornamental detail, like engraving or gemstones set all the way around the band, simply because to install an adjustable shank, we would have to cut an existing band and add an adjustable shank part. This option is permanent and more expensive, because it requires more material and time from the jeweler, but it’s a great option for truly tricky knuckles. Meaghan’s own grandmother, a lifetime knitter with arthritis issues in her knuckles, has these on her most treasured rings. 

What we don’t recommend: Spring Ring Guards

Many jewelers will opt for these semi-permanent additions, because they offer more flexibility than permanent adjustments, and they are quite inexpensive to install. However, we feel that these are generally a bad idea for most rings. Spring ring guards are made out of metal, and basically fold into the base of the ring by wrapping the guard prongs around the ring shank. Because they are made out of metal and aren’t permanently affixed, they slide around and inevitably wear down the shank of the ring over time. This can lead to weak spots on the ring that will ultimately necessitate replacing the entire ring shank, which is an expensive and invasive project. If you ever walk into a jeweler and they try to slap one of these onto your rings, don’t let them! 

A perfectly fine alternative: Silicone Ring Sizers

If you want a temporary solution to your sizing issue, silicone ring sizers are a great idea. These are extremely inexpensive and they will not damage your ring as you wear them. You can cut them down to size to create the perfect fit, and you can easily remove them on days when your hands are more swollen, if needed. Sure, they get a little grimy over time, but you can easily replace them as they only cost seven cents a piece. We usually include a silicone snuggie with our custom rings to help clients deal with sizing on a temporary basis. I have also recommended them to clients who see a lot of variability in how their ring fits from day to day.