Custom Vs. Bespoke (And What These Terms Really Mean!)

You've heard the terms before: "custom design," "bespoke jewelry," "private jeweler," etc. These are industry terms that feed into marketing, but what do they really mean to you, as a client or potential client? It can get confusing, and it's meaningful when picking a jeweler for your next project. Here's the skinny:

Custom Design

• It can mean just about anything: from a jeweler using basic pre-designed elements to "customize" a piece, all the way to completely bespoke design that won't be replicated.

• Most "custom design services" offered by other jewelers are quite limited: they work with pre-set designs from vendors that can be adjusted to accommodate different gemstone shapes and perhaps change some small details.

• Often rings aren't designed to sit ideally because the settings are prefabricated, leading to stones loosening faster or a higher setting than necessary.

• Sometimes jewelers do offer more customization options, but they often hire these design services out to companies that exclusively do CAD design. Usually, these designers are overseas, so you aren't working directly with the person creating your design. The jeweler serves as a middleman between you and the designer.

Standard custom design services can be a good idea if you really like the vendor designs and want to work with that exact aesthetic. At Alx&Co., our House Collection of engagement rings and wedding bands offers a customizable template for your ring design. Clients can choose from these designs and make edits, or they can pick from our in-stock collection. This is a great option if you know you love what you see and don't want to go through an entire bespoke design process. Of course, since we created these designs, they can be completely re-worked and customized to any specification you like.



Bespoke Design

• At Alx&Co., our specialty is bespoke design, meaning we create completely unique pieces for our clients that won't be replicated for another design.

• All of our designs (except for our House Collection) are created from scratch, meaning we build the structure from the ground up to exactly conform to your particular specifications.

• This is ideal for most higher-value gemstones or for irregular cut gemstones, such as sapphires which often have a deeper belly than most diamonds.

• It is also better suited for a client who wants a more unique or personalized ring because we can add small details that make the design "yours."

• Most heirloom re-design projects or anything other than an engagement ring will probably require the skill set of someone who can do a completely bespoke design: most standard jeweler design programs only offer engagement ring designs, so if you want a cocktail ring, a necklace, or earrings, you might be out of luck.

• Our design services are completely in-house, meaning we don't send your ring out for design work. You communicate directly with the designer during your process, so there is no room for miscommunication.

If a jeweler says that they do custom design, it's worth asking them to differentiate what they mean in light of these capabilities. Questions to ask would include whether they use a prefabricated format for their designs, whether they work with a specific vendor for ring designs, and who precisely executes the design drafts. Every jeweler is different!

Private Jeweler

• A private jeweler is someone who can provide expert advice and services on a repeat basis, often covering entire lifetimes!

• This might mean a client starts with a custom engagement ring design, then comes for wedding bands, then comes for a custom ordered anniversary gift, then comes for a birthday present, etc., and all the while the jeweler is doing check-ups on the client's pieces, repairing necessary parts, and generally ensuring the lifetime value of your collection.

• A private jeweler will search for custom gift ideas, but they may not have a large stock on hand: they tend to rely on a network of connections to source exactly what their clients need, rather than keeping a large inventory to sell as people walk in to buy things.

• Usually, private jewelers are by appointment - like us! - because open walk-in hours aren't conducive to the hands-on type of consultations that they provide.

It's always important to ask a jeweler who does their repair work and where it's done. Many jewelers outsource their craft, so it's important to know from a consumer standpoint where your item is. Using a private jeweler takes a tiny bit more foresight, but it will inevitably result in a more perfectly personalized gift than going to your standard walk-in jewelry shop. We work with clients on a regular basis to source exactly the perfect gift for their loved one, so don't hesitate to reach out if you have a specific idea in mind. I'm sure we can find it!