Bangkok: Temples, Night Markets, and Sunset Cocktails
Bangkok is the right city to end a long trip on, and I say that having arrived there at the tail end of two weeks through Vietnam and Cambodia, slightly sun-worn and carrying more silk than I had planned to purchase. The city absorbed me immediately. It is large and loud and relentlessly interesting, and it has good hotels and a food scene that does not require any particular effort to find—that it is restorative in a way that more demanding cities are not.
There are two competing versions of Bangkok in one city. There are rooftop bars, high-end malls, hotel pools, and Michelin-starred tasting menus. Then there is the Bangkok that runs on street food, temple incense, and the particular energy of a city that is simultaneously one of the most visited on Earth and somehow still entirely itself. Being able to dip back and forth between the two as you like is what makes Bangkok fun.
1. The Temples: Go Without an Agenda
Wat Pho. Wat Arun. Wat Phra Kaew. Go see them all; it's what you are there for. The names are everywhere, and the temples deserve every word written about them—but the advice I would give is not to over-plan the temple days. Pick one anchor temple in the morning when it is cool and the light is right, and then let the afternoon be whatever it becomes, wandering nearby neighborhoods for a drink and food, then doing something relaxing before dinner.
I found that wandering into temples I had no particular agenda for—they just were there at the water taxi stop—and wandering around at leisure produced some of my best hours in Bangkok. I watched people bring offerings and light incense and go about the quiet work of their faith. I sat in courtyards that had been sacred for centuries and felt the particular silence of places that hold a lot of human feeling. I watched people get their Instagram moment in silly ways. You do not need a tour guide for this. You need comfortable shoes you can easily slip on and off and the willingness to be still for a few minutes.
2. The Other Sites I Visited
Bangkok's Chinatown—Yaowarat—is worth an evening and a morning. The ornamental gate is genuinely spectacular, the narrow streets are packed with energy, and the food is some of the best in the city. This area has tons of gold, so if you are interested, this is where to head. Go at night first for the atmosphere and the street food, then return in the morning when it is quieter and more navigable.
The River Taxi—in and of itself—is a fun experience to see the sights and be on the water with great views. I mostly sat on the top deck and watched the world go by, although this can be a sweaty endeavor midday.
Jim Thompson House—Jim Thompson has an interesting story, part hero, part villain, part mystery. His house is a designer's dream. I loved seeing the art and artifacts, the house itself and gardens, and hearing more of the story of the secret agent turned textile designer. I love Jim Thompson pieces and own several, so this was a fun stop for me.
Ong Ang Walking Street—This was a fun stroll with lots of murals and street art that I enjoyed in the morning between other stops.
The Flower Market—I loved the sights and smells of the flower market. The intricate temple offerings are beautiful to see being created. All the flowers smelled so fragrant, and there were big stacks of flowers everywhere. This was such a fun walk between temples and other stops.
Let's be honest, readers: I also enjoyed some shopping and picked up some jewelry, gems, and clothes from brands we don't have here in the United States, so when you tell me my outfit is cool, I can say, "I got it in Thailand!" Also, they worship little fluffy white dogs in Asia, so there were some Charlie souvenirs that came home with me too.
3. What to Eat and What It Costs
A meal at a Bangkok street cart costs $2. A meal at a restaurant that deserves your full attention costs $15–$20. The ceiling for a genuinely excellent dinner—the kind that would run $150 in Washington—is about $40. This city does not require a large food budget. It requires an appetite and a willingness to eat at tables with plastic chairs.
There was absolutely no line when I went to Raan Jay Fai, and I got to enjoy a crab omelet packed with crab made by the celebrity herself! I also got the drunken noodles, which were spicy and delicious. This spot is cash only and normally has a line, but it goes fast!
I also quite enjoyed the food court at Siam Paragon and trying all sorts of dishes. Bao buns, curry, noodles, pandan-flavored desserts, and anything else you could think of were in the big food halls at the mall—with air conditioning!
I splurged on dinner at Supanniga Eating Room, with a view over the river. It's a Michelin-noted restaurant where I had crab curry and an amazing braised cabbage. It was a little jewel box of a restaurant. The rooftop bar next door at The Deck is a perfect place to watch the sunset.
Another fun rooftop bar was Paradise Lost, which was pink and very Palm Beach-themed. I was hoping to dine at their Michelin restaurant one floor down, but it was closed for a private event. I also had a drink at the famous Hangover rooftop bar, but, eh, it was mid, as they say nowadays.
I also went to the night market at Jodd Fair because I liked the vintage vibe, but I'll be honest: I thought the stalls had a lot of carryover, and it wasn't as unique and fun as the smaller night markets I had been to in Phuket. Still, it's worth visiting a night market for sure. I just loved the other markets where I felt it was easier to get one bite of this and one bite of that.
4. The Practical Things
Bangkok is easy to navigate if you use the BTS Skytrain for longer distances and walk when you can. Traffic in Bangkok is horrendous, so if you need a Grab, plan on it taking double the estimated time. The river ferries are inexpensive and scenic and will take you to most of the temple district. If you book a hotel near the metro and Skytrain, it will save you a lot of walking to and from those locations.
Bangkok is hot. A good hotel pool is life. It's great to come back from being so incredibly sweaty and be able to cool down and relax at the hotel pool until it's time to find a bar for sunset and then dinner.
Get a Thai massage. A traditional Thai massage, where women in matching uniforms have been doing this work for years, costs $10 to $30 for 90 minutes and is one of the great bargains of the known world. I had one on my second day and have thought about it almost every day since. I love the stretches included in Thai massage.
Dress for the temples and the heat—shoulders and knees covered, shoes you can slip off but also walk a long way in. Most temple entrances have sarongs available for loan if you forget, but it's better not to rely on that. The temples are the whole point of being here, and being able to walk freely through all of them requires approximately five minutes of wardrobe planning. Pack a sarong in your purse to throw on when needed, but otherwise wear cool, flowy clothes that will keep you comfortable in the heat.
