Travel Notes: A Magical Baltic Summer

Yes, magical is the exact word I want to use to describe the transformation my home country, Latvia, goes through from cold, gloomy days in late April to the loveliest land under the sun from June to August! (And, yes, you read that right: Most Latvians don’t pack their winter wears away until mid-May!) Unlike the southern regions of Europe where temperatures rise to steamy levels, temperatures in the Baltic region usually stay in the mid-70s, once in a while spiking to the low 80s. 

There is a whole culture around Latvians and their summer homes. It's a perfect escape from the city to garden, read books, and dine al fresco.

Above all, summer in the Baltic states is a celebration of heritage, sustainability, and the enduring connection between people and nature. The Midsummer festivities bring communities together to embrace the wonder of the natural world, while foraging for mushrooms and berries instills an appreciation for the earth's bountiful gifts. Let me give you a quick guide on what to expect, where to be and what not to miss while visiting Latvia. Who knows, maybe next summer instead of planning a trip to Provence, you might decide to head north. 

When to arrive

One of the most enchanting aspects of summer in the Baltic states is the Midsummer celebration, also known as "Jāņi" in Latvia, "Jaaniõhtu" in Estonia, and "Joninės" in Lithuania. This ancient pagan festival takes place around the summer solstice, on June 23 or 24, when the Nordic region experiences the longest day and the shortest night of the year. I always plan my trip back home around this holiday, ideally arriving a couple of days beforehand to explore the most wonderful "Liigo!'' fair in Old Town Riga's Dome Square. The Midsummer celebration is a cherished tradition that highlights the strong connection between the Baltic people and their natural surroundings. For those who don’t have a local connection, but still want a true Midsummer experience, there are plenty of towns that organize communal festivities featuring live music, food vendors, and bonfires. My suggestion: Head to one of the beach towns on the western shore; seeing bonfires light up the whole coastline is worth experiencing!

 A Midsummer celebration is unimaginable without a bonfire. The fires are lit as the sun sets and burn throughout the night until the sunrise.

Where to stay

While I absolutely love Riga (the capital of Latvia) where I was born and raised, I do feel that the real essence of Latvian summers can be found in the countryside. Thanks to very generous state-governed benefits (at least four weeks of paid annual leave) and their deep connection with nature, locals usually escape the city in the summer and spend time by the sea. Many move out to a summer cottage or visit relatives and friends in the countryside. Naturally, my favorite spot is my family’s summer cottage. About a 40-minute drive from Riga, it’s a tiny, three-bedroom house, with a lush garden and a pergola where we enjoy all our meals. There’s really not much to do – and that’s the beauty of it. We spend our days tending the garden, taking naps under the apple trees, strolling to the river for a refreshing dip, and foraging in the local forest for wild berries and mushrooms. Good news for visitors, there are plenty of rentals available during the summer season all over the country. You can find spots that are very secluded, as well as places that are near small towns or villages.

One of the most beautiful traditions during Midsummer is for women and girls is to wear handmade wreaths woven from wildflowers.

What to pack

There are absolutely three staple pieces that need to be in your suitcase – a linen dress or shirt, a cozy cardigan, and a raincoat. First, let’s talk about linen. Latvians love their linen. Not only is it the perfect choice for keeping cool during the warm summer days, it also honors our culture and promotes sustainable fashion. When I started my own clothing label Montmarquet.A, I immediately knew I wanted to incorporate my cultural heritage in my designs, so naturally I chose linen. With a focus on simple lines and a predominantly neutral color palette, the pieces in my collection are modern expressions of old traditions. 

The Elza dress in black currently available at Park Story, Washington D.C.

The Inese dress in blush peach currently available online and at Muz & Rose, Downtown Leesburg.

If you don’t own a piece of linen clothing, you can always pick one up after you arrive – there are plenty of local boutiques that feature linen garments made by artisans who practice eco-friendly manufacturing practices. To preserve and celebrate its natural beauty, most of the linen garments are made from natural, undyed fabric; if dye is used, it’s non-toxic. And, yes, you will need a warm cardigan if you are planning to stay up until sun rises during Midsummer night. You’ll also need a raincoat because, chances are, it will rain. After all, we do have a saying: “It’s raining as if it were Jāņi!”

That is my Latvia summer in a nutshell. Now I encourage you to go discover your own!